Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated by Claire B. Shaeffer

By Claire B. Shaeffer

The global of high fashion is a spot the place just a privileged few can ever desire to dwell, correct? incorrect. type historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this unique realm in her authoritative consultant to the options that outline couture stitching. And now, the bible, Couture stitching Techniques, has been revised and up to date all through — with new images and a bankruptcy on area of expertise materials. nobody can get to the bottom of couture garment development the way in which Schaeffer can, from the artwork of hand stitching to gaining knowledge of side finishes, from vintage closures to shaping a garment for an ideal healthy. Readers study the entire fundamentals — and extra importantly: how one can follow the options — on skirts and sleeves, wallet and jackets, night robes, and extra. attractive photographs, transparent illustrations, and concise language mix to make this the main whole couture-sewing path available.

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I use a calyxeyed or easy-threading needle to secure the thread ends. To make a tailor’s knot, pull the bottom thread through to the upper layer. Give the threads a sharp tug to be sure they are firmly locked; knot the ends. To remove the bastings after you have machine stitched, clip the basting threads every 3 in. to 4 in. and pull them out, using tweezers if necessary. its variations, the appliqué seam, is painstakingly hand-stitched around the motifs of luxurious, costly lace and special-occasion fabrics).

Wrong side up, open the seam with your fingers. Using just the iron point, not the entire soleplate, press the stitched line firmly with a sharp up-anddown movement. claire’s hint Do not press the edges of the seam flat against the garment. This is easier if you place the seam on a seam stick, point presser, or seam roll. s ha p i n g th e ga r m e n t 41 Assembling the Garment The process of assembling a garment in haute couture is less straightforward than in home sewing and luxury readyto-wear.

To 8 in. Cut the thread, leaving a 2-in. tail. 4. Begin again, using a 2 in. tail instead of a knot. Overlap the last few stitches about 1⁄2 in. 5. Continue to the end, basting short segments so the threads overlap at the beginnings and ends. 6. Anchor the thread at the end with a backstitch. Diagonal Stitches. Diagonal stitches can be temporary basting stitches or permanent stitches. The stitch can be worked vertically or horizontally, depending on how you hold the fabric, and from top to bottom, or vice versa.

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