By Gerhard and Klaus-Peter Schmolke Koop
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Alclad’s primers and metallic paints seem to produce an especially large and noxious cloud of vapour, so make sure you have adequate ventilation and, ideally, a respirator before you start. Once the primer coat has been applied, the model should once again be polished and checked for any lingering flaws. After these have been dealt with, we are ready for the first metallic coat. In this case I commenced with Alclad Aluminium Shade A. A fine, misting coat is plenty to start with, and the nozzle of the airbrush should be fairly close to the surface of the plastic – no more than about 10cm away.
These circles represent overpainting of earlier, larger national markings. Masking tape was generously applied to the wings and forward fuselage before painting the white leading edge stripes. We don’t want to cover our nice camouflage pattern in white overspray, do we? com CHAPTER 2 • BUILDING A N E W G E N E R AT I O N L I M I T E D - R U N K I T 40 M ARKINGS , WEATHERING AND FINISHING TOUCHES The markings for my model represent 54 Sqn RAF based in Darwin during 1943. Although these markings look like RAAF roundels, this is in fact a British squadron based in the Antipodes.
The benefits of this method of replacement are that the bond between resin and plastic is very secure, the dihedral is guaranteed, there is only one join to fill and it is quite simple. Details such as the bulges and cannon barrels are simply glued on to the resin wing. Instructions are supplied on a double-sided A4 sheet of paper. The text and diagram do a good job of outlining the potential problems and solutions associated with this project. In particular, the instructions talk about the need to fill a small gap in the sidewall of the wheel well when the outer wing is removed.